Your Guide to Creating a Custom Anime Figure

So, you've decided to dive into the world of custom anime figures. You're about to turn a standard, mass-produced figure into a unique piece of art that’s entirely your own.

This is where collectors and artists get to add custom color schemes, create gritty weathering effects, or even sculpt new parts to match a specific vision. It’s how a common collectible becomes a one-of-a-kind masterpiece.

Your Journey Into Anime Figure Customization

Welcome to the incredibly rewarding hobby of figure customization. Think of this guide as your complete roadmap, whether you're just breathing new life into a simple prize figure or you're ready to assemble a complex resin garage kit from the ground up. We're going to break down the entire process into clear, manageable stages so you can create something you're truly proud of.

This is about more than just applying paint; it’s about artistic expression. And you're not alone in this—the anime figure market is absolutely booming. It was estimated to be worth around $2.5 billion in 2025 and is only projected to keep growing. It just goes to show how popular and cherished these collectibles have become.

1. Understanding the Creative Possibilities

Before you even think about picking up a brush, it’s important to get a feel for what’s possible. A custom anime figure project can be as simple or as ambitious as you want it to be.

Here are a few paths you can take:

Simple Repaints: This is all about applying a new color scheme to an existing figure. It's a fantastic starting point for beginners. For instance, you could give a character a "manga-accurate" color palette or dream up an original design from scratch.
Cel-Shading: This is a popular technique that makes a 3D figure look like it jumped right off a 2D anime cel. It involves painting sharp, dark lines and flat colors to mimic that classic hand-drawn look.
Part Modification: Now we're getting into more advanced territory. This involves cutting, sanding, and sculpting new elements with epoxy putty. You could change a character's hairstyle, add some cool battle damage, or even create brand-new accessories.
Full Kit Building: This is the deep end of the pool—working with unpainted resin "garage kits." These require full assembly, pinning parts together for stability, and painting everything from the ground up.

The most important tool you have is your vision. Seriously, spend some time just thinking about what you want to create before you even touch the figure. A clear plan prevents mistakes down the line and makes the whole process way more enjoyable.

If you're looking to brainstorm and really nail down your concept, checking out guides on creating a custom anime character can be a huge help in solidifying your figure's unique design.

2. The Foundational Mindset for Success

If there’s one thing you need for a successful custom project, it's patience. Rushing through prep work or painting is a surefire way to get messy results that are a real pain to fix. You have to embrace the idea that this is a step-by-step craft, where each stage builds on the one before it.

From the very beginning, adopt a patient and methodical mindset. This approach will give you the confidence you need to kick off your project with a clear artistic direction and see it through to a stunning conclusion.

Assembling Your Customization Toolkit

A killer custom anime figure project doesn't start when you pick up a brush; it starts with gathering the right gear. Having a well-stocked workspace makes the whole process smoother and has a huge impact on the final quality of your figure. It's the difference between a fun project and a frustrating mess.

The desire to customize is a huge part of the anime scene. The global anime merchandising market hit a massive USD 10.85 billion in 2024, and the figurine segment makes up over 37% of that pie. It just shows how much collectors love these figures and want to make them their own.

The Must-Have Supplies for Every Customizer

Don't feel like you need to buy out the entire art store to get started. The key is to focus on the essentials—the workhorse tools you'll use on pretty much every single figure you touch.

Your foundational toolkit absolutely needs:

Hobby Knife: A sharp X-Acto knife is your best friend. You'll use it for everything from cleaning up ugly seam lines to trimming plastic and making small mods.
Sanding Tools: Grab a few different grits of sandpaper (like 400, 800, and 1200) and some sanding sponges or sticks. These are non-negotiable for smoothing surfaces after cutting or applying putty.
Primer: A quality primer is a game-changer. It gives the paint a perfect surface to grip onto, preventing chipping and making your colors pop just right. Spray can primers from brands like Tamiya or Mr. Surfacer are a fantastic place to start.

Once you have these basics down, you've nailed the prep work that lays the groundwork for a stunning paint job.

Choosing Your Paints and Brushes

The paint you pick literally defines your figure's entire look. The two main choices in the figure painting world are acrylics and lacquers, and they each have their own pros and cons.

For anyone just starting out, water-based acrylics are the way to go. There’s a reason brands like Vallejo and Citadel are so popular—they have almost no smell, clean up with plain water, and are incredibly forgiving if you make a mistake. Lacquers, like the ones from Mr. Color, give you a super durable, buttery-smooth finish, but they come with intense fumes and require harsh thinners to work with.

Pro Tip: If you're going to splurge on one thing, make it a high-quality detail brush. A size 0 or 00 round brush will be your go-to for painting eyes, tiny highlights, and all the other intricate details that truly bring a character to life. You can get away with cheaper synthetic brushes for base coats, but a great detail brush is worth every penny.

A good starter set of brushes would include a small flat brush for base coats, a couple of round brushes for general painting, and that one amazing detail brush. And don't forget a palette—a simple ceramic bathroom tile from a hardware store works perfectly and is easy to clean.

Essential Safety Gear

Let’s be real: you’re working with chemicals. Primers, thinners, and even some paints release fumes you absolutely shouldn't be breathing in. Safety isn't just a suggestion; it’s a critical part of the hobby that protects your health for years to come.

Your non-negotiable safety items are:

Respirator Mask: A simple dust mask won't cut it. You need a proper respirator with organic vapor cartridges to filter out the nasty fumes from spray primers and airbrush thinners.
Gloves: Nitrile gloves are a must. They protect your skin from chemicals and, just as importantly, keep the natural oils from your hands off the figure, which can completely ruin a paint job.
Ventilation: Always, always work in a well-ventilated area. Crack open a window and use a fan to push fumes away from you. If you get serious about airbrushing, a spray booth is an excellent investment.

Essential Toolkit for Custom Figure Painting

Navigating the world of supplies can be overwhelming. This table breaks down what you truly need to start versus what you can add later as you get more experienced. It’s designed to help you budget and prioritize your shopping list.

Tool Category	Beginner Must-Haves (Examples)	Advanced Upgrades (Examples)	Purpose in Customization
Cutting/Trimming	Hobby Knife (X-Acto), Side Cutters	Photo-Etch Saws, Pin Vise Drill	Removing parts from sprues, cleaning seam lines, and making precise modifications.
Sanding/Smoothing	Sandpaper (400-1200 grit), Sanding Sticks/Sponges	Micro-Mesh Pads, Electric Sander	Creating a perfectly smooth surface for primer and paint, removing imperfections.
Priming	Aerosol Spray Primer (Tamiya, Mr. Surfacer)	Airbrush Primer (Stynylrez, Vallejo)	Ensuring paint adhesion, providing a uniform base color, and revealing surface flaws.
Painting	Water-Based Acrylic Paints (Vallejo, Citadel), Basic Brush Set, Ceramic Tile (Palette)	Airbrush Kit, Lacquer Paints (Mr. Color), Wet Palette	Applying base coats, details, and color gradients to bring the figure to life.
Sealing	Aerosol Matte/Gloss Varnish (Testors, Tamiya)	Airbrush-Ready Varnishes	Protecting the finished paint job from chipping, scratching, and UV damage.
Safety	Respirator Mask (Organic Vapor Cartridges), Nitrile Gloves, Good Room Ventilation (Open Window)	Dedicated Spray Booth with Exhaust Fan	Protecting your health from harmful chemical fumes and skin contact with solvents.

Building your toolkit is the first exciting step on your customization journey. Once you're geared up, you'll be ready to tackle almost any project you can dream of.

For a little inspiration on what's possible, check out our collection of custom Dragon Ball figures to see what a professional-level repaint looks like in action.

Prepping Your Figure for a Flawless Finish

If there's one secret to a professional-looking custom anime figure, it's this: preparation is everything. This is the foundational work that determines whether your paint job will be smooth and durable or a chipped, uneven mess. Many beginners rush this stage, only to find their hard work ruined by a single overlooked seam line or a patch of stubborn mold release.

Think of it like building a house—you wouldn't start putting up walls on a crooked foundation. Mastering these prep skills ensures your paint has the perfect canvas to grab onto, making every step that follows so much easier and more effective.

The Art of Disassembly and Cleaning

Before you can fix any imperfections, you need to be able to get into all the little nooks and crannies. The first order of business is carefully disassembling the figure. Most prize figures are held together with pegs and a bit of glue, so a gentle but firm wiggling motion can often separate parts like arms, heads, and accessories.

For those really stubborn joints, try dipping the part in hot (not boiling) water for 30-60 seconds. This softens the plastic just enough to make disassembly a breeze.

Once the figure is in pieces, it's time for a bath. Every single PVC figure comes out of the factory coated in a thin, oily layer of mold release agent. If you don't wash this off, your primer and paint will just bead up and refuse to stick properly.

Make a simple cleaning solution: All you need is a bowl of warm water with a few drops of dish soap.
Scrub everything gently: Use an old, soft-bristled toothbrush to scrub every single part. Pay extra attention to the deep crevices and detailed areas where that release agent loves to hide.
Rinse and dry completely: Rinse each piece thoroughly under cool water and let them air dry for at least 24 hours. Trapped moisture is the absolute enemy of a good paint job.

Taking the time for a thorough wash is non-negotiable. It's the single most common step skipped by newcomers, and it's almost always the reason for paint adhesion failures down the line. Don't skip the bath!

Achieving a Seamless Surface

Now that your parts are sparkling clean, you can tackle the most common flaw on mass-produced figures: seam lines. These are those faint raised lines where the two halves of the mold met during manufacturing. Leaving them visible is a dead giveaway that a figure is a repaint, not a high-quality custom piece.

Sanding these away is a process that requires patience. Start with medium-grit sandpaper (around 400-600 grit) to knock down the main line, then move to finer grits (800, then 1200) to smooth the surface back to a flawless finish. Try wrapping the sandpaper around a craft stick for flat surfaces or using a flexible sanding sponge for curves to avoid creating flat spots.

Sometimes you'll run into gaps or sink marks that sanding alone can't fix. This is where putty becomes your best friend.

Tamiya Basic Putty is an excellent choice for tiny pinholes and minor scratches.
Milliput or another two-part epoxy putty is much better for filling larger gaps, as it's stronger and won't shrink as it cures.

Just apply a small amount of putty to the gap, smooth it out with a sculpting tool or a wet fingertip, and let it fully cure before sanding it flush with the surrounding plastic.

For creators looking to collaborate on complex modifications that require extensive sculpting or 3D printing, exploring professional services can provide the expertise needed for such ambitious projects.

Pinning and Priming for Stability and Adhesion

For larger resin kits or heavily modified parts, a dab of glue just won't cut it. This is where pinning becomes essential for long-term stability. Using a pin vise (a small hand drill), you drill a small hole into each part you want to join. Then, you insert a small piece of a metal paperclip or brass rod, cut to size, and use super glue to create a super strong, reinforced connection. This ensures heavy parts won't sag or snap off down the road.

Finally, the moment that ties all your prep work together: priming. A high-quality primer does three critical jobs: it reveals any surface flaws you might have missed, gives the paint a uniform surface to stick to, and provides a neutral base color so your paints look their best.

Apply a light, even coat of spray primer from about 6-8 inches away in a well-ventilated area. It's always better to apply two thin coats than one thick, clumpy one. Once that primer is dry, you officially have a perfect canvas, ready to bring your artistic vision to life.

Mastering Painting and Detailing Techniques

This is where the magic really happens. After all that careful prep work—the cleaning, sanding, and priming—you’re left with a perfect blank canvas. Now it's time to inject some personality into your custom anime figure and bring your vision to life with color.

The painting stage is where your artistry truly takes over. Whether you're chasing that crisp, factory-fresh look or aiming for a gritty, battle-worn warrior, the techniques you use now will define your figure's entire character. It's a blend of technical skill and creative instinct.

Building Your Foundation With Base Coats

First things first: the base coat. This initial layer of paint is everything. It sets the tone for all the work that comes after, laying down a smooth, solid foundation of color. A sloppy or rushed base coat will show, creating streaks or an uneven finish that even the best shading can't fully hide.

For big surface areas like clothing or skin, an airbrush is an invaluable tool. It’s incredible for creating flawless, gradient-like layers that are a real struggle to achieve by hand. Nailing the paint consistency is the secret sauce here; thin your paints to the consistency of milk for the best results.

Sticking with hand-painting? The key is patience. Always go for multiple thin coats over one thick, gloopy one. A heavy coat will only clog up fine details and leave nasty brush strokes. Just thin your acrylics with a little water or flow improver, apply two or three light layers, and let each one dry completely. It takes longer, but the beautifully smooth result is worth it.

Creating Depth With Shading and Highlighting

A figure painted with only flat colors will look... well, flat. To make your custom figure pop and feel truly three-dimensional, you have to play with light and shadow.

Shading is all about adding darker tones where shadows would naturally fall—think under the chin, deep in the folds of a shirt, or between strands of hair. A common trick is to mix a slightly darker version of your base color and carefully paint it into these recessed spots.

Highlighting is just the opposite. You'll take a lighter version of your base color and hit the raised surfaces where light would catch directly. This means places like the tip of the nose, the tops of the shoulders, or the sharpest edge of a piece of armor. It's this contrast that gives your figure volume and a sense of realism.

Key Insight: Don't just default to black and white for your shadows and highlights. For a much richer shadow, try mixing a tiny bit of a complementary color into your base. For example, a touch of deep purple added to a yellow base creates a far more natural-looking shadow than just adding black ever will.

Advanced Detailing Techniques

Once your base colors, shadows, and highlights are locked in, it's time for the fun stuff. These are the techniques that add that extra layer of texture and definition, elevating your project from a simple repaint to something that looks professionally done.

Washes: A wash is just super-thin, watery paint that you apply over a surface. It automatically flows into all the tiny cracks and crevices, making details like panel lines on mecha or the texture on cloth really stand out. You can buy pre-made washes or easily make your own by heavily diluting your acrylics.
Dry Brushing: This is a fantastic trick for adding texture and catching raised edges. Dip your brush in some paint, wipe nearly all of it off on a paper towel, then lightly drag the bristles across your figure. The tiny bit of pigment left will only catch on the highest points, creating a weathered effect perfect for things like leather, stone, or worn metal.
Masking: If you need razor-sharp, clean lines between colors, masking is your best friend. Use high-quality modeling masking tape to cover a section you’ve already painted, apply the next color, and then peel the tape away. You're left with a perfect edge. This is a non-negotiable skill for painting stripes, emblems, or complex mechanical parts.

Bringing Anime Eyes to Life

The eyes are the soul of any anime figure. They’re the focal point and carry all the emotion. Painting them takes a steady hand and a clear plan.

Start with the Sclera: Begin by filling the entire eye socket with a solid off-white or a very light grey. Pure white often looks too stark and kills the realism.
Paint the Iris: Next, carefully paint the colored part of the eye. A good detail brush is essential here. Try to create a subtle shadow at the top of the iris where the eyelid would naturally cast one.
Add the Pupil: Place a black dot in the center. The size and shape you choose here can completely change the character's expression.
The Final Gleam: The last, most critical touch is that tiny dot of pure white for a reflection. This single highlight instantly makes the eye look wet and alive. Many artists will add one large dot and a much smaller one to create more depth.

For extremely complex patterns on clothing or accessories, some customizers are even looking beyond traditional paint. Exploring various heat transfer printing methods can open up new doors for precision and durability on certain surfaces. It just goes to show how the hobby is always evolving. Mastering these core painting skills is how you'll transform any figure into a piece of art that truly feels dynamic and expressive.

Sealing the Deal: Applying the Final Top Coat

You’ve made it. After all the careful prep, painting, and shading, your figure is looking incredible. But don’t put your tools down just yet. This last step—applying a protective top coat—is what separates a great custom from a temporary one. Think of it as invisible armor, shielding your masterpiece from dust, fingerprints, and fading from UV light.

This final seal does more than just protect; it brings the whole piece together. It unifies all the different paint sheens into a single, cohesive finish, transforming your project from a delicate art piece into a durable, display-ready collectible.

And the interest in pieces like this is exploding. The anime action figure market was valued at a massive USD 8.7 billion in 2024 and is projected to hit USD 23.4 billion by 2034. North America is a huge part of that, making up about 37.1% of the market. Your custom figure is part of a massive, passionate hobby.

Choosing the Right Finish for Your Figure

The top coat you pick has a massive impact on the final vibe of your figure. Each finish has its place, and knowing when to use them is a skill that will elevate your work.

Matte Finish: This is your go-to for most projects. A matte top coat kills all the shine, giving you a flat, realistic look that’s perfect for skin, clothing, and almost any non-metallic surface. It’s also great at hiding tiny imperfections in the surface.
Gloss Finish: Want something to pop? Go with gloss. It creates a hard, shiny, reflective surface that’s perfect for visors, wet-look effects, gemstones, or gooey alien textures. A slick gloss finish on a mecha’s armor can make it look like it just rolled off the assembly line.
Semi-Gloss (Satin) Finish: This is the perfect middle ground. Satin offers a subtle sheen that looks incredible on materials like leather, certain types of armor, or fabrics that need a little life without looking wet or plasticky.

Here's a pro tip I use all the time: mix your finishes. Lay down a matte varnish over the entire figure first. Once it's cured, you can go back in with a brush-on gloss varnish to hit just the eyes, lips, or boots. The contrast is stunning and adds a huge dose of realism.

How to Apply Your Top Coat (and Avoid Common Mistakes)

Applying the top coat correctly is just as important as choosing the right one. Whether you're using a spray can or an airbrush, the technique is key to avoiding dreaded issues like a cloudy finish or a surface that stays tacky forever.

If you’re using a spray can, follow these steps for a perfect finish:

Warm the can. This is a game-changer. Let it sit in a bowl of warm (not hot!) water for about ten minutes. This improves the pressure and helps the varnish atomize into a super-fine mist.
Shake it like you mean it. Seriously. Shake the can for a solid two minutes. If you don't, the matting agents won't mix properly, and you'll get that awful "frosty" or cloudy look.
Spray in light, sweeping coats. Keep the can about 8-10 inches from the figure. It’s always better to apply two or three super-thin coats than one heavy, wet one.

Got an airbrush? You’ll have even more control, but just make sure your varnish is thinned appropriately for your specific setup. With either method, humidity is your worst enemy. Always try to spray on a dry, low-humidity day to stop moisture from getting trapped under the coat.

Final Touches and Putting It All Back Together

Right before you seal everything, this is your last chance to add details like water-slide decals. Apply them, use a decal-softening solution so they hug every curve, and then lock them in place with the top coat. It makes them look like they were painted right on.

Once the top coat has fully cured—and I mean give it a full 24 to 48 hours to be safe—it’s time for the best part: reassembly. Be gentle here. Don't force parts together, or you risk chipping that beautiful paint job. If a joint feels too tight, just gently sand it down a little.

For projects that need a little extra sparkle and flair, you can draw inspiration from all kinds of custom work, like this stunning Blonde Glitter Glamors figure. Follow these final steps, and you’ll have a custom figure that’s not just gorgeous, but also built to last for years to come.

Common Questions About Figure Customization

Jumping into the world of custom anime figure projects can feel like a pretty big deal, and it's totally normal to have a ton of questions. Whether you're just dipping your toes in or you've hit a snag on a project, getting good answers can save you a world of frustration. We’ve pulled together some of the most common questions we see in the community to help you navigate the tricky spots.

Think of this as your personal troubleshooting guide. These are the kinds of practical issues that trip up just about everyone at some point.

What Is the Best Paint for a Beginner to Use?

For anyone just starting out, water-based acrylic paints are the hands-down winner. You can’t go wrong with brands like Vallejo Model Color or Citadel because they’re just so easy to work with.

The perks for newcomers are huge:

Low Odor and Non-Toxic: You can paint comfortably at your desk without needing a full-on ventilation system, which is a massive plus.
Easy Cleanup: We all make mistakes. With acrylics, a bit of water is usually all you need to clean up a spill or wipe away a bad brushstroke before it dries.
Very Forgiving: They are simple to thin with water, which is perfect for layering and getting those smooth coats you want. This gives you a lot of control while you're still learning.

You’ll probably see experienced customizers using lacquer paints, but it’s best to save those for down the road. Lacquers give you a super tough finish, but they demand harsh, smelly thinners and a seriously well-ventilated space, making them a more advanced tool.

How Do I Fix a Mistake After the Paint Has Dried?

It's a gut-wrenching moment—spotting a mistake after the paint job is completely dry. But don't panic; it's almost always fixable. How you tackle it really depends on the type of paint you used.

If you were working with acrylics, you’ve got a couple of solid options. For a tiny smudge or error, you can often lift it by lightly dampening a cotton swab with 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol and gently rubbing the area. The key is to be gentle.

For bigger screw-ups, you'll need a more serious approach. This might mean lightly sanding the area with a very fine-grit sandpaper (think 1200 or 1500 grit), dabbing a tiny bit of primer back over the spot, and then repainting it to blend in.

Pro Tip: Always test alcohol or any solvent on a hidden part of the figure first, like the bottom of a foot, to make sure it won’t melt or damage the plastic.

Do I Absolutely Need an Airbrush to Customize Figures?

Nope, you definitely don't need an airbrush to create a jaw-dropping custom anime figure. So many incredible pieces are made entirely by hand-brushing. Whether you should get one really boils down to the specific look you’re aiming for and your personal workflow.

An airbrush is a specialized tool that really shines in two areas: applying flawlessly smooth, even base coats over large surfaces and creating soft, subtle gradients for shading. While you can replicate these effects with a brush, it takes a lot more time and skill.

I always suggest that if you're new to the hobby, focus on mastering your hand-brushing skills first. Learn how to thin your paints correctly and get a feel for your brush strokes. You can always invest in an airbrush later on once you're more confident and ready to tackle new techniques.

How Do I Prevent Paint from Rubbing Off Joints?

Ah, paint rub. It's one of the most stubborn problems in figure customization. There’s nothing worse than posing your freshly painted figure only to see paint chip off the shoulders or elbows.

The best defense is a good offense—it all starts with prep work before you even touch a paintbrush. Carefully sand or file down the parts of the joint that rub together. This creates a tiny bit of extra space that dramatically cuts down on friction.

After painting, sealing the joint is crucial. Apply several thin, tough layers of a high-quality top coat, paying extra attention to these high-friction areas. A gloss or semi-gloss varnish is typically more durable than matte. Let that top coat fully cure for at least 48-72 hours to get it rock-hard before you pop the joint back in.